Intense grief over the loss of a pet is normal and natural. Don't let anyone tell you that it's silly, crazy, or overly sentimental to grieve!
During the years you spent with your pet (even if they were few), it became a significant and constant part of your life. It was a source of comfort and companionship, of unconditional love and acceptance, of fun and joy. So don't be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a relationship.
People who don't understand the pet/owner bond may not understand your pain. All that matters, however, is how you feel. Don't let others dictate your feelings: They are valid, and may be extremely painful. But remember, you are not alone: Thousands of pet owners have gone through the same feelings.
Different people experience grief in different ways. Besides your sorrow and loss, you may also experience the following emotions:
The most important step you can take is to be honest about your feelings. Don't deny your pain, or your feelings of anger and guilt. Only by examining and coming to terms with your feelings can you begin to work through them.
You have a right to feel pain and grief! Someone you loved has died, and you feel alone and bereaved. You have a right to feel anger and guilt, as well. Acknowledge your feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances actually justify them.
Locking away grief doesn't make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out. Do what helps you the most. Don't try to avoid grief by not thinking about your pet; instead, reminisce about the good times. This will help you understand what your pet's loss actually means to you.
Some find it helpful to express their feelings and memories in poems, stories, or letters to the pet. Other strategies including rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you would have spent with your pet; preparing a memorial such as a photo collage; and talking to others about your loss.
If your family or friends love pets, they'll understand what you're going through. Don't hide your feelings in a misguided effort to appear strong and calm! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and find ways to handle them. Find someone you can talk to about how much the pet meant to you and how much you miss it-someone you feel comfortable crying and grieving with.
If you don't have family or friends who understand, or if you need more help, ask your veterinarian or humane association to recommend a pet loss counselor or support group. Check with your church or hospital for grief counseling. Remember, your grief is genuine and deserving of support.
Your veterinarian is the best judge of your pet's physical condition; however, you are the best judge of the quality of your pet's daily life. If a pet has a good appetite, responds to attention, seeks its owner's company, and participates in play or family life, many owners feel that this is not the time. However, if a pet is in constant pain, undergoing difficult and stressful treatments that aren't helping greatly, unresponsive to affection, unaware of its surroundings, and uninterested in life, a caring pet owner will probably choose to end the beloved companion's suffering.
Evaluate your pet's health honestly and unselfishly with your veterinarian. Prolonging a pet's suffering in order to prevent your own ultimately helps neither of you. Nothing can make this decision an easy or painless one, but it is truly the final act of love that you can make for your pet.
Many feel this is the ultimate gesture of love and comfort you can offer your pet. Some feel relief and comfort themselves by staying: They were able to see that their pet passed peacefully and without pain, and that it was truly gone. For many, not witnessing the death (and not seeing the body) makes it more difficult to accept that the pet is really gone. However, this can be traumatic, and you must ask yourself honestly whether you will be able to handle it. Uncontrolled emotions and tears-though natural-are likely to upset your pet.
Some clinics are more open than others to allowing the owner to stay during euthanasia. Some veterinarians are also willing to euthanize a pet at home. Others have come to an owner's car to administer the injection. Again, consider what will be least traumatic for you and your pet, and discuss your desires and concerns with your veterinarian. If your clinic is not able to accommodate your wishes, request a referral.
When a pet dies, you must choose how to handle its remains. Sometimes, in the midst of grief, it may seem easiest to leave the pet at the clinic for disposal. Check with your clinic to find out whether there is a fee for such disposal. Some shelters also accept such remains, though many charge a fee for disposal.
If you prefer a more formal option, several are available. Home burial is a popular choice, if you have sufficient property for it. It is economical and enables you to design your own funeral ceremony at little cost. However, city regulations usually prohibit pet burials, and this is not a good choice for renters or people who move frequently.
To many, a pet cemetery provides a sense of dignity, security, and permanence. Owners appreciate the serene surroundings and care of the grave site. Cemetery costs vary depending on the services you select, as well as upon the type of pet you have. Cremation is a less expensive option that allows you to handle your pet's remains in a variety of ways: bury them (even in the city), scatter them in a favorite location, place them in a columbarium, or even keep them with you in a decorative urn (of which a wide variety are available).
Check with your veterinarian, pet shop, or phone directory for options available in your area. Consider your living situation, personal and religious values, finances, and future plans when making your decision. It's also wise to make such plans in advance, rather than hurriedly in the midst of grief.
You are the best judge of how much information your children can handle about death and the loss of their pet. Don't underestimate them, however. You may find that, by being honest with them about your pet's loss, you may be able to address some fears and misconceptions they have about death.
Honesty is important. If you say the pet was "put to sleep," make sure your children understand the difference between death and ordinary sleep. Never say the pet "went away," or your child may wonder what he or she did to make it leave, and wait in anguish for its return. That also makes it harder for a child to accept a new pet. Make it clear that the pet will not come back, but that it is happy and free of pain.
Never assume a child is too young or too old to grieve. Never criticize a child for tears, or tell them to "be strong" or not to feel sad. Be honest about your own sorrow; don't try to hide it, or children may feel required to hide their grief as well. Discuss the issue with the entire family, and give everyone a chance to work through their grief at their own pace.
Pets observe every change in a household, and are bound to notice the absence of a companion. Pets often form strong attachments to one another, and the survivor of such a pair may seem to grieve for its companion. Cats grieve for dogs, and dogs for cats.
You may need to give your surviving pets a lot of extra attention and love to help them through this period. Remember that, if you are going to introduce a new pet, your surviving pets may not accept the newcomer right away, but new bonds will grow in time. Meanwhile, the love of your surviving pets can be wonderfully healing for your own grief.
Generally, the answer is no. One needs time to work through grief and loss before attempting to build a relationship with a new pet. If your emotions are still in turmoil, you may resent a new pet for trying to "take the place" of the old-for what you really want is your old pet back. Children in particular may feel that loving a new pet is "disloyal" to the previous pet.
When you do get a new pet, avoid getting a "lookalike" pet, which makes comparisons all the more likely. Don't expect your new pet to be "just like" the one you lost, but allow it to develop its own personality. Never give a new pet the same name or nickname as the old. Avoid the temptation to compare the new pet to the old one: It can be hard to remember that your beloved companion also caused a few problems when it was young!
A new pet should be acquired because you are ready to move forward and build a new relationship-rather than looking backward and mourning your loss. When you are ready, select an animal with whom you can build another long, loving relationship-because this is what having a pet is all about!
| 1. Buddy |
| 2. Max |
| 3. Sadie |
| 4. Jack |
| 5. Daisy |
| 6. Lucy |
| 7. Lady |
| 8. Charlie |
| 9. Rocky |
| 10. Duke |
| Adonis | Fang | Keno |
| Andretti | Figaro | Legend |
| Asahi | Fonzi | Liberace |
| Baja | Gangsta | Limbaugh |
| Banzai | Genghis | Loverboy |
| Barfly | Goober | Madden |
| Bellyflop | Harley | Magnum |
| Cabernet | Hoffa | Mango |
| Callahan | Hooligan | Mantra |
| Casino | Hulk | Mercedes |
| Cha-Cha | Imagine | Nemo |
| Dakota | Ishtar | Nikita |
| DiMaggio | Jade | Panache |
| Disco | Jamaica | Polka |
| Durango | Jazz | Sake |
| Elliott | Kadabra | Samurai |
| Espresso | Kashmir | Tamale |
| Addison | Ebony | Pebbles |
| Amore | Espirit | Rain |
| April | Fable | Rapunzel |
| Asia | Fantasia | Reno |
| Babykins | Fawn | Rhythm |
| Bahama Mama | Fly Girl | Sable |
| Bandit | Geisha | Sasha |
| Bashful | Gipsy | Serenade |
| Beans | Grace | Sierra |
| Bluebell | Latte | Tahnee |
| Cadence | Lolita | Tequila |
| Cashmere | Nellybelle | Vesper |
| Cuddles | Nicky | Violet |
| Dancer | Noodles | Vogue |
| Delaney | Nutty | Yummy |
| Doodle | Orbit | Yoga |
| Dumpling | Paris | Yogi |
CRATING A PUPPY
A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally adjust well to a crate as being his "own place." Any initial complaints he might voice are not normally due to the crate, but rather about his learning to accept the controls associated with his unfamiliar environment. The crate will help him to adjust to his new world more easily and quickly, since he is being introduced to this new world only a small portion at a time.
Crating Routine
With the crate situated in it's location, the crate needs to be furnished. Bedding can be provided by using an on towel or piece of blanket which can be washed (should an accident occur) and some worn unlaundered article of clothing such as a tee shirt, or old shirt (to help familiarize him with your scent). Do not put food or water in a puppy crate. The puppy will only upset the dishes, and this is his bedroom - you do not eat in bed.
Make it clear to children that the crate is not a "playpen" for them, it is the puppy's room. You should, however accustom the puppy from the start that people can reach into the crate at any time, so that the puppy does not become overly protective of his crate.
A "crate routine" should be established immediately, closing the puppy in the crate at regular intervals for 1 to 2 hours during the day. The puppy's nap times will help guide you in establishing these times. Additionally, whenever the puppy must be left alone for a period of time, or is going to be unsupervised the pup should be crated. Prior to crating, be sure to remove the pup's collar which could become caught in an opening.
At night, in the beginning, you may want to place the crate in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom or laundry room. Placing the crate in this area with the door left open and newspapers nearby, enables the pup to relieve itself without soiling it's crate. Once the pup matures he will develop greater bladder and bowel control. When the pup has sufficient control, and if there is no intestinal upset, he can be crated all night in his usual place.
There may be setbacks - but don't give up - the keys are consistency and perseverance. The pup will adjust to the routine - you will have a secure well adjusted companion.
If you do not choose, or not able, to use the crate permanently, you should plan on using the crate for at least 5 to 6 months. At this age your pup will be past the teething phase - at which time you can start leaving the crate door open at night, or when someone is at home during the day, or when he is going to be left alone for a brief period of time. If there are no incidences for a week or two, and the dog is behaving well when left alone, you may be ready to remove the crate itself and place the dog's bedding in the same spot. Initially the dog may miss the crate enclosure, but the dog still has his "place", and the habit of good behavior should continue. If any problems arise the crate routine can be re-established.
CRATING AN ADULT DOG
The most common behavior problem of older puppies (over 6 months) or adult dogs is caused by the lack of a feeling of security when left alone. A crate can help to fulfill this need, and will hopefully solve the problems, but it must be introduced gradually. You must make every possible effort to be sure that the dog's association with the crate is positive and pleasant. The owner must also remember that the crate is not to be used for frequent long-period usage.
How to condition the dog to the crate
Be sure that the crate is of adequate size (see How Big Should the Crate Be ?). Be sure that the crate is properly positioned (see Crate Location in The Home). Secure the door open, so that it can not accidentally shut and frighten the dog. Do not put the bedding in the crate. Allow the dog to investigate the crate, then lure the dog inside the crate by tossing "special" tidbits (cheese, liver, hotdog) into the far end. Allow the dog to turn and come back out. Praise him enthusiastically for his conquest of his fears. When the dog is confidently entering the crate place his bedding and an object with your scent in the crate. Coax the dog inside the crate and try to entice him (with food if necessary) to lie down and relax. Do not wrestle him into place, he must be comfortable - not forced. Continue this pattern for several days. Encourage the dog to use the crate as much as possible, and shutting the door briefly while you sit beside him or are nearby. The dog may resist in your efforts to give him a secure home. You must remain firm and consistent, so that the dog will understand you want him to be in the crate and be quiet. He may not be content in the crate but he will accept that this is your desire.
As soon as he has accepted the crate and you are confident that he will remain quiet when closed in, you can safely leave him alone. Give him a chew toy or a safe bone to entertain him while you are gone. Be sure that his collar is removed, so that it won't get caught on anything. You may want your first outing to be brief (1/2 to 1 hour), proving to yourself that he has quietly accepted confinement and reassuring him that you have indeed come back to him. With the acceptance of the crate as his "special place" the dog will stop being a problem and start being a pleasure. In due time you may be able to start weaning him from use of the crate without resuming problem behavior.
The Midwest 1154U Dog Crate is perfect for a Great Dane, Mastiff, Newfoundland, Saint Bernard, or other giant dog breed. Our XXL dog crate is 54 inches in depth, and is sized appropriately for your adult dog. This 54 inch dog crate is suitable for dogs 110+ lbs.
The Solutions Series 54" Double Door Dog Crate has the same great features as the 1154U except it comes with the added versatility of two doors. This allows you more flexibility when placing the crate.
While searching for no-no foods for dogs yesterday to go along with my previous post, I stumbled across a few articles that detail homemade dog food can be the best. Interested, I dug a bit deeper for some more facts.These are super disturbing and honestly it's made me think twice about the kind of dog food will be purchasing for my future dog.
Here's what I found:
- Dogs are perfectly capable of living on a vegetarian diet.
- Many times a dog will even live a longer life on home prepared food than it will on manufactured food. (article points out that if humans ate fast food everyday, they would not be as healthy- same for a dog)
-Dog food companies are in business to make money. They do not have to follow the same regulations that are given to companies that manufacture food for human consumption. They have, instead, their own regulations that are not as stringent. Some of these regulations allow for using some rather unsavory ingredients.
- A recent dog food and pet food recall across the United States was a result of contaminated commercial dog food tainted with aminopterin, a rat poison, and melamine, a chemical used in making plastics and fertilizer.
- Other ingredients can include:
· Euthanized dogs -Toxic chemicals such as Sodium Phenobarbital, the euthanizing agent injected to kill dogs daily at dog shelters. (This comes with the euthanized dog who is ground up at a rendering plant to be added to dog food. The dog may still be wearing a flea collar and be in a plastic bag when rendered )
· Blood
· Feathers
· Undeveloped eggs
· Downed, dying, diseased and dead animals (Known as the 4Ds)
· Hooves, beaks, feet and hide
Maybe I'm taking this a bit far but I'm thinking homemade for sure because this is horrible. Here are the sites that I found the info from: Dogs4Life.com and BarkBarkI'mHungry.com.
